Friday 6 July 2012

The pleasures of dim sum (yum cha)

As I received the visit of a family member last week, I found myself going and returning to London's Chinatown again and again for those dim sum made by expert chefs trained in Hong Kong, and which just don't taste the same in Paris (which can boast great Vietnamese food but not so much proper Chinese food).

Many varieties of dim sum contain prawns and mince pork, a combination made in heaven.
The firm texture and fresh briny taste of prawns, the crumbly melting texture and intensely salty taste of mince pork, underlined by the crunchy and mild flavours of cabbage or Chinese chives, wrapped in a choice of tofu skin, or thin rice paper or eggy pasta sheet.
Each dim sum is a little cocktail of carefully balanced ingredients, each mouthful an alliance of different tastes and textures having an elated party with your tastebuds.
The hint of chilli from the chilli paste that you have dipped your little parcel in is giving you an extra kick, an extra dimension which makes the party extra special, like that special fruity cocktail you made for your party which makes all your guests want to drink a little more, and encourages them to be even more sociable.

And then all the other varieties.
Pan-fried turnip cake, the wonderfully melting texture of the white cake with the soft turnip and its slightly crunchy chestnuts.
Shanghai dumplings (xiaolongbao, literally little dragon dumplings), the juicy parcel skin having started to soak some of the (dangerously) hot stock packed with meaty and veg flavours, bursting in your mouth as you take your first bite into the pretty round creamy white coloured dumpling.
Fried taro cake, the crispy oiliness of the brown hairy-looking batter stuffed with mince pork and taro, the marriage of the salty, melt-in-the-mouth pork and starchy sweetness of the taro.
Marinated chicken feet - I know it sounds awful, and I don't pretend that it's easy to overcome the repulsive idea if you were not brought up with it - the intense garlic, chilli and soya sauce flavours soaked right through the skin. The soft melting texture of the skin. The highly satisfying gnawing action, biting into the piece, separating the skin from the bones in your mouth, and spitting the bones out (I think only Chinese people can really appreciate the pleasure of gnawing through bones).

And then all the "accessories".
Tea, the only beverage that will help your stomach digest all these little parcels - dim sum are quite oily. Tikuanyin is a family favourite, its strong slightly bitter flavour balancing all the salt in the food, the heat of it comforting your stomach and kicking off the digestion process.
The friends and family, if possible a full table of 10 or 12 people you haven't seen for a long time, catching up as you express your love and care for them by putting parcels in their bowls as the waiters bring them to the table, pouring tea into their cups, making sure that their plate and cup are never empty until no more steaming bamboo dishes are brought in and everyone has a full stomach and is drinking their tea to wash everything down before getting ready to carry on with their own Sunday afternoon's programme of fun.

One of the small pleasures in my life. One more reason for me to stay in the UK!

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